Tjibby Blog/Business stories/COCO CHANEL: The Orphan, the Icon… the Nazi’s Plus One

COCO CHANEL: The Orphan, the Icon… the Nazi’s Plus One

Saturday, May 10, 2025

Chanel. It’s not just a brand. It’s a religion for the rich. Bags worth more than your car. Perfume sprayed like holy water. And a logo so powerful it could probably get elected.

But how the hell did we get here?

Who decided black and white was the new black?
Who dared to murder the corset—and somehow became a fashion god for doing it?
And what exactly happened at that dinner party… that flipped the entire fashion industry on its head?​

To find the answers, we need to go back—Not just to a simpler time…

But to a time when women were legally required to look like decorative furniture.

Setup

The Birth Of A Fashion Icon!

It’s August 19th, 1883. Saumur, France. A town best known for horses, wine… and, unknowingly, birthing a fashion hurricane. 

Inside a cramped room above a shop that sells dust and false hope—Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel enters the world.

“Bonheur” means happiness.

Which is adorable, considering her life is about to read like a Dickens novel with sharper cheekbones.

Her mother, Jeanne, scrubs clothes for rich people who won’t even look her in the eye. Her hands are always raw. Her silence, louder than most sermons. Her father, Albert, sells trinkets from a basket. Buttons. Ribbons. Dreams, technically—though he never quite figures out how to feed them to his kids.

He calls himself a merchant. The locals call him “unreliable.”
They're both right.

And baby Gabrielle?

She’s already watching. Already learning what survival doesn't look like.

Act 1

The Making Of A Rebel

It’s winter.
Not metaphorically. Literally.
The air bites like it has something to prove.

And inside the house, eleven-year-old Gabrielle Chanel watches a coffin cart away her mother.

No crying. Just silence.
Because grief isn’t allowed. It’s inefficient.

Her father—charming, flaky, allergic to responsibility—says he’ll be back.
He isn’t.

What he does do is drop her off at the convent, with all the ceremony of tossing out an old shoe.

Welcome to the Abbaye de Aubazine.
Where the nuns believe suffering is character development, and happiness is a suspicious emotion.

The hallways echo like cathedrals. Discipline is religion. Silence is law.

But Gabrielle? She’s not wired for obedience.

She learns to sew. Not as a hobby. As a weapon. Needle. Thread. Fabric.
Her tools. Her rebellion. Her escape plan.

At 18, she’s out. But the world doesn’t exactly roll out a red carpet.
She’s a low-paid seamstress by day… and by night?

Cue the cabaret.

Picture it:
A smoky dive bar. A small stage. A voice that should come with a warning label. She sings off-key songs about lost love to an audience of drunk soldiers and yawning aristocrats.

But somehow… the name sticks.
“Coco.”

​Maybe it’s from a song. Maybe it’s irony.
Either way, it sounds better than “abandoned orphan with sewing skills and vengeance in her bones.”

And just like that…

The myth begins.

Act 2

How She Started A Cult

Coco’s in her twenties now. And she’s done playing small.

She meets Étienne Balsan—ex-cavalry officer, heir to a textile fortune, and walking proof that wealth doesn’t always come with ambition.

He’s got land. He’s got horses. He’s got a mustache that probably thinks for itself 

She moves into his château.
Not as a guest. As a strategist.

While the other mistresses sip champagne and practice swooning, Coco studies.

She studies the clothes. The class. The silence.

And then she does the most scandalous thing a woman could do in 1908:
She starts thinking for herself.

She designs hats. But not the feathered bird massacres that scream “fragile.”

Her hats are clean. Sharp. Unapologetic.

At first, women laugh.
“What is that? A hat for thinking in?”​

​Then they see her wear them. And something terrifying happens.

They start to want them.

Enter Arthur “Boy” Capel. Balsan’s friend
Coco’s next move.

Where Étienne was a pastime, Boy is the partner.

He bankrolls her first shop—not out of charity, but because he sees it. The fire. The brand. The revenge stitched into every seam.

Rue Cambon becomes her base of operations. She sells hats. Then clothes. Then the idea of freedom—
Wrapped in jersey fabric and middle fingers to tradition.

Coco isn’t selling fashion. She’s selling escape. And the upper class?

They can’t get enough.

Act 3

Why She Killed The Corset

Picture this:
You’re a woman in 1912.

To be “fashionable,” you must wear a corset so tight your lungs file for divorce. Your skirt is so wide it needs its own public transportation. And your entire existence is designed by men who think women are decorative plants with a credit card.

Now, enter Chanel. Wearing… trousers. Loose silhouettes.
Jersey fabric—the kind used for men’s underwear.

The horror.

Fashion editors flinch. Socialites whisper. The patriarchy breaks into a nervous sweat.
And Coco? She doesn’t blink.

She starts designing clothes she wants to wear. Soft. Minimal. Moveable. Radical.
Women try it on and discover something shocking:

They can breathe.
They can move their arms.
One allegedly fainted from comfort.

And just like that, the revolution begins. Chanel doesn’t just remove the corset. She removes the concept.
She tells women: “You don’t have to suffer to look powerful. You already are.”

And in a world still obsessed with putting women in cages—She hands them keys. Wrapped in chic, black fabric. The corset doesn’t die with a bang.

It dies with a whisper. A sigh of relief.
And the click of Chanel’s cash register.

Act 4

What Happened At That Dinner Party?

It’s the kind of night where women dress like Fabergé eggs.

Silk. Sequins. Beading so heavy it comes with spinal damage.

Every detail is curated to scream:

“I have money, status, and absolutely no sense of restraint.”

Then the room quiets. The music stumbles. And every jeweled neck in the room turns— Because she’s here.

She’s not wearing gold.
She’s not wearing lace.
She’s wearing a simple, short, black dress.

No embroidery. No frills. Just black.  As if she came to a party… dressed for a funeral.

Someone gasps. A lady whispers: “Who died?”

Chanel walks in like she’s the answer. No one dares speak to her. Not yet.
Because they know what they’re seeing— But they can’t quite process it.

It’s not underdressed.
It’s overpowered.

That little black dress doesn’t blend in. It devours everything else. And somewhere in the silence, fashion dies. Or at least… everything that came before it.

The “little black dress” is born.

It’s not flashy.
It’s not loud.
It’s lethal.

Chanel doesn’t just design a dress—She designs a revolution. The kind that sneaks in quietly, slaps everyone’s drink out of their hand, and leaves with the crown.

Act 5

The Perfume Power Play

Coco has conquered clothes. But now she wants something more… permanent. Fabric fades. Trends change. But scent? Scent is a memory with a grudge.

So she decides to bottle power.

Not femininity. Not seduction. Not “a walk through a meadow while smiling at absolutely nothing.”

Power.

Sample one? Too polite. Sample three? Smells like regret. Sample five?

She pauses. It’s bold. Artificial. Clean. Mysterious. A contradiction in liquid form.
Coco smiles.

“I want that one.”

Beaux: “It’s number five.”
Coco: “Perfect. I never name things that explain themselves.”

She packages it in a bottle so minimalist it looks like it escaped IKEA.
No ribbons. No flowers. Just glass. Because Coco doesn’t wrap her ideas in apologie

And then—She markets it with a move so savage, it belongs in a business school textbook under “Power Plays That Should Be Illegal.”

She doesn’t launch it.
She lets it circulate.
Strategically. Quietly. Like a rumor with a killer scent.

Soon, every woman in Paris wants it.
Because every other woman already has it.

Genius.

By the 1950s, it’s not a fragrance—it’s a movement. Worn by icons. Whispered in bedrooms.
Sprayed in the air like it’s oxygen for the elite.

She doesn’t just sell perfume. She sells identity. Confidence. Seduction. Defiance.
In 1.7 ounces.

Act 6

The Dark Side

Paris is occupied.
The Nazis have arrived.
The world is crumbling like a stale croissant.

And inside the Ritz Hotel—Suite 302 glows with cigarette smoke, silk sheets, and something far more complicated: Coco Chanel… and a German officer.

His name is Hans Günther von Dincklage. Nazi spy. Fluent in charm, subtext, and apparently… Coco.

People whisper.
“Is she collaborating?”
“Is it survival?”
“Is it strategy?”

The truth?

Like everything Chanel—it's wrapped in mystery and stitched in grey. She shuts down her fashion empire, citing wartime ethics. Very noble.

Meanwhile, she’s cozy at the Ritz—eating well, living better, and allegedly helping the Nazis broker secret messages.

She even tries to reclaim full control of her perfume business—because the Jewish family that co-owned it was forced into exile.

Strategic timing or opportunistic betrayal? You decide. 

History’s still fighting over it.

Then the war ends.
The city breathes again.
The world starts cleaning houses.

And Chanel? She’s arrested.

Briefly. Very briefly. Because somehow, mysteriously, no charges stick. Rumor has it Churchill himself made a call. Power protects power.

And perfume apparently makes excellent camouflage.

She vanishes to Switzerland. For years. No press. No comments. No closure. Because when your legacy smells like No. 5 and moral ambiguity, it’s best to let time do the PR.

Was she a survivor?
A traitor?
A woman playing chess in a burning building?

History shrugs. Fashion forgives. Because by the time she returns…Her throne is still warm.
And the world still wants what only Chanel can give.

Act 7

The Comeback & The Crown

She’s 70 years old. Living in Switzerland. Officially irrelevant. Fashion’s moved on.
It’s frilly. It’s floral.

It’s basically everything she once set on fire.

But Coco? She doesn’t go quietly. She doesn’t go at all. She returns to Paris like a storm in heels.
Announces a comeback.

People laugh.
​“She’s too old.”
“She’s out of touch.”
“She dated a Nazi.”


Coco hears it all. And then, as always… she lets her work answer for her. The show starts.

And what do they see?

Tweed jackets. Soft lines. Pockets—actual pockets in women’s clothing. Power disguised as elegance.
At first, the French critics scoffed.

“Boring.”
“Outdated.”
“Too masculine.”

But across the ocean?

The Americans lose their minds. They see not an old woman stuck in her ways—They see the blueprint. The icon. The woman who dressed freedom in black and gold.

Sales explode.

The Chanel empire rises from the ashes—stronger, louder, untouchable. She doesn’t win the critics. She wins the market. Because Coco’s not here for applause. She’s here for the empire. And she got it.

January 10th, 1971. She dies in the Ritz.

Not in a hospital. Not surrounded by loved ones. In a suite she called home. With a wardrobe that could kill.

No funeral tears on silk. No farewell speeches. Just silence. And the sound of an empire that never stopped growing. Coco Chanel was not a fashion designer. She was a system hacker in a black dress. She didn’t ask for permission. She didn’t wait for a movement.

She was the movement.

So next time you think your life’s too messy to build a brand… remember—Coco started in an orphanage. Dated a Nazi. Took down the corset. And made a fortune selling fabric and audacity.

What’s your excuse?

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